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Gardens | Casanova Salso

Casanova Salso

Giudecca is only a short gondola ride from San Marco and in the 18th century was Venice’s “garden of delights”.

Alongside noble residences (such as Palazzo Vendramin, Palazzo Dandolo, Palazzo Barbaro Nani) there were modest “pavilions” for shorter stays, called “casini”.  There were convents (such as Zitelle and le Convertite), Academies, like the Academy of Philosophy, the Convito dei Nobili and, above all, parks, orchards and vineyards.

It was here that the city dwellers, normally confined to narrow alleys and small courtyards, could enjoy fresh air and open spaces, as well as the then famous “vin salso”, called in this way because of its characteristic salty after-taste, due to the vicinity of the lagoon.

Today the Giudecca is much changed, but some of the gardens which were the favourite summer retreats of the Venetian noble families still exist.  One of the most attractive, which is still in working order, is the Casanova Garden, between Hotel Cipriani and Palazzo Vendramin.

It is spacious, open to the light, has wide views and hosts parties and meetings on its extensive lawn.  Adjoining is a vineyard which has been brought back to life after years of abandon and will soon produce a unique wine.

In local tradition, the wine will be called “Casanova Salso” because of the following fascinating story, uncovered by the well-known historian of cuisine, Massimo Alberini.

“It is the Spring of 1753 that Sir Giacomo Casanova, now 28, is living in Venice after a stay in Constantinople and travels in Europe. Barely two years later he will be accused of sorcery by the Republic’s inquisitors and thrown into the Piombi prison. But these are happier times and Giacomo is indulging his favorite pursuits, the witty salons, writing and, above all, women.

Young and not so young, pretty and not so pretty – like many seducers, he is not particularly “choosy” in his tastes. And so, he falls in with a rather disreputable family, the Capretta’s.

The husband is always out and about, the wife all too tolerant.  The son professes great friendship with the aim of getting Casanova’s endorsement on a bill of exchange, allegedly to buy wine in Cyprus.  In return, he gives Giacomo the key to a “pavilion” on the Giudecca and suggests inviting his sister Caterina there, with the excuse of tasting some of the famous wines produced on the island.

Caterina is young, pretty and easy-going.  “She told me her brother had made the right decision” Casanova later said.  A hired gondola brought them to the Giudecca.  “It was Pentecost Monday and there were plenty of people about, a dozen groups seated at the tables!”  This leads us to suppose that there must have been open-air coffee shops and wine booths.  “So we decided to take dinner in the pavilion and then go to a theatre”.

They had further encounters, counting on the services of a landlady and her sly daughter, who prepared their coffee “piping hot” and quick meals of game and fish.

In more relaxed moments, Caterina wated to go for long walks.  She challenged Casanova to a race, which gallantly he allowed her to win.  “After four hours the landlady came to tell us that the gondola had arrived to take us back”.  This is the story of Giacomo Casanova at the Giudecca as written by the historian Massimo Alberini, who was the one to suggest that the Hotel Cipriani revive the old tradition of making wine on the Giudecca!

The Casanova wine, bottled for Hotel Cipriani by J. B. Sherwood’s winery in Tuscany, Capannelle, is the happy result of the first harvest of grapes to be made in Venice after the XVIIIth century.

In ancient times, the gardens and vineyards of the Giudecca were famous amongst Venetians and many of the noble families built themselves summer retreats at first, called “casini”, then beautiful palazzi to enjoy the climate and the tranquility, as well as the vast green spaces of this very special island.

The Hotel Cipriani is proud to announce that, in spring 2001, over 2000 bottles of “Casanova Salso” were ready for its cellars. A collector’s wine from the Giudecca island.

Grape Varieties: Merlot; Cabernet; Refosco.


 

 


 
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